Guides · Aftercare

A woven piece does not wear out. It dries out.

Almost every problem people report with handwoven pieces — cracking, fading, a shape that slowly sags, a grey bloom in a stored corner — comes from the same property that makes the piece possible in the first place. Understand that one thing and the rest of the care is obvious.

Start with the mechanism The care card

One piece, four rooms Above a radiator dries out, then cracks In direct sun bleaches unevenly Damp, still air mould finds a home Ordinary wall shade, moving air, fine
Diagram, not photograph. Three of the four rooms are fine for furniture and wrong for this material.

The short answer

Dust it dry, keep it out of direct sun, keep it away from a radiator, clean a mark with a cloth that is barely damp and dry it straight away, and never put it in a sealed plastic bag. That is most of it.

The rest of this page is the reasoning, because the reasoning is what lets you answer a customer's question without looking anything up — and because the one rule that people break most often (water) is the same rule that explains why the piece exists at all.

Nothing below is specific to one supplier. These are the properties of dry plant fibre, and they apply to a piece from us, from another workshop in Bobai, or from a maker you found somewhere else entirely.

Why dry air cracks a woven piece

A bamboo or maize strip is mostly cellulose, and the water inside it is not contamination — it is what makes the material bendable. Water molecules sit between the fibres and let them slide past each other a little. Take that water out and the strip gets stiff, then brittle: bend it and instead of flexing, it fails at the tightest point of the turn.

In a heated room in the middle of winter, or above a radiator, or in the direct line of an air conditioner, that is exactly what happens over weeks rather than days. The piece does not look old. It looks dry, and then one day there is a split along a curve where nothing touched it.

The same property that lets it be made is what you must not undo

Every piece in this category is woven damp, shaped while damp, and dried into that shape. That is the whole trick: water makes the strip workable, and removing the water locks the shape in. The full sequence is here, and it is worth knowing, because it explains four separate pieces of advice at once:

  • Why the shape exists. The curve was set while the fibre could still move.
  • Why soaking ruins it. Water returns the fibre to a workable state, and the piece then takes a new shape — the one gravity gives it while it dries.
  • Why it must dry flat and evenly. Drying one face faster than the other puts stress into the strip, and that stress reappears later as a crack.
  • Why dry air is the enemy. Remove too much water and there is nothing left keeping the fibre flexible.
One material property, four rules. If you only remember one line from this page, remember that water is the working fluid of the whole craft — and treat any water you add later as a deliberate act with consequences, not as cleaning.

Four places pieces actually get damaged

1 · Dry heat

A radiator, a heated floor, a spot directly under an air outlet. This is the one that produces cracks, and it is almost always diagnosed as a fault in the piece. It usually is not: the piece was made in a humid county in the south of Guangxi, where the material behaves for hours between soaking and weaving, and then sold into a centrally heated room in February.

2 · Direct sun

Two mechanisms at once. Ultraviolet light breaks down the lignin in the fibre, which is the bleaching you see, and the warmth of the sunlit spot drives moisture out faster than the rest of the piece. That is why a piece with one edge towards a window ends up two colours rather than one uniform lighter colour.

3 · Damp and still air

Mould needs three things: something to grow on, moisture, and air that is not moving. A woven plant fibre piece is the first one by definition, so you are managing the other two. A bathroom, a kitchen corner, a basement — anywhere damp and unventilated — and a sealed bag or a tightly wrapped pallet are the two ways this usually happens.

Insects are the worry people raise first and the risk worth worrying about least. Dry plant fibre with no starch left in it is not an attractive food source, and a piece that has been properly dried is a poor one. Mould is the realistic risk.

4 · Weight on one point

A woven piece holds its shape because it dried, not because it is rigid. Hang a wide one from a single fixing and the weave around that point carries everything, slowly, for as long as it hangs. Stack heavy things on a flat piece and the same thing happens from the other direction. Spread the load: two fixings for anything wide, and nothing stacked on top of a piece that is meant to be seen.

How to clean a woven piece

Three levels, and you should rarely need the third.

Dust — as often as you like

A soft brush, moved in the direction the strips run. A vacuum cleaner on its lowest setting with a brush attachment also works, but do not put the bare nozzle on the weave: suction pulls at the ends of the strips and can lift one that was tucked in years ago. Dust gathers in the valleys of the weave, so a piece that looks dull rather than dirty usually only needs this.

With the weave the brush follows the strips Against the weave lifts ends out of the binding
Diagram, not photograph. Cleaning direction matters more than cleaning force.

A mark — rarely, and carefully

Wring a clean pale cloth out until it does not drip, wipe the mark with the weave rather than across it, then go over the same place with a dry cloth and leave the piece somewhere with moving air until you are certain it is dry. Not warm-and-fast: even-and-thorough. If the mark is still there, it is probably in the fibre rather than on it, and you stop.

A full clean — you probably should not

There is no version of washing a woven piece that carries no risk, because the risk is not the dirt, it is the water. If a piece genuinely needs more than dusting and a damp cloth, it is a job for someone who can dry it flat and evenly afterwards, and it is worth asking whether the piece is worth it first.

Five things never to do

Do notWhat happensWhy
Soak it, or leave it in water It dries into a new shape — usually a slumped one Water is what made the fibre workable in the first place
Use a steam cleaner Heat and moisture together, unevenly One face dries before the other, and the stress shows up later as a split
Reach for bleach or a strong detergent Strip colour out unevenly, leave residue in the weave The colour is the fibre itself, not a coating, so it cannot be cleaned back
Oil it, wax it, or spray it Surface gets tacky, then grey, then hard to clean at all A film traps dust and stops the fibre exchanging moisture with the room
Store it sealed in plastic A grey bloom appears in the weave Whatever moisture was in the piece when you closed the bag stays in it

Storing stock between seasons

For a shop rather than a home, the practical version is short: flat, nested with a sheet of acid-free tissue between each piece, in a carton that can breathe, off a concrete floor, away from a radiator, and sell the oldest first.

  • Nested, not stacked loose. Shallow pieces are designed to sit inside each other; that is half the reason the freight is reasonable. Tissue between them stops the surfaces abrading.
  • Carton, not plastic. Cardboard lets moisture leave. Plastic keeps it exactly where it was the day you sealed it. A bag around a piece for a sea voyage, with a desiccant in the carton, is a different thing from a bag around a piece for six months — it is long-term storage that traps moisture.
  • Off the floor. Concrete holds damp and passes it on, and a flood that never touches the shelf still reaches the bottom box.
  • First in, first out. These pieces do not expire, but they do slowly change, and the oldest stock is the stock most likely to differ in colour from what is on your shelves now.
Breathable carton moisture leaves Sealed plastic moisture stays
Diagram, not photograph. Storage is not about keeping air out. It is about letting moisture leave.

The colour will move, and that is the evidence

An untreated plant fibre responds to its surroundings. Two pieces from the same batch can be a shade apart before anything happens to them, and six months of light will move both. The first instinct of anyone selling these is to treat that as a fault to be eliminated. It is the opposite: a coating that held one colour forever would be the thing to be suspicious of, and it would come with the problems listed in the table above.

If you sell these, the useful move is to say so first. A customer told in advance that the piece will settle and shift reads it as a natural material. A customer who discovers it reads it as a defect, and the return costs more than the sentence did.

A care card you can hand to your customers

This is the version we would print. Take it, change the wording, put your own name on it — it is not ours, and it is the sort of thing no one in this category bothers to give you.

Care

Dust along the weave with a soft brush, or a vacuum on its lowest setting with a brush attachment.

For a mark, use a cloth wrung out until it does not drip, wipe with the weave, then dry the same place with a dry cloth and let the piece air.

Keep it out of direct sun and away from radiators and air outlets. Dry air is what makes natural fibre crack.

Do not soak it, steam it, or use bleach, detergent, oil or spray polish. Do not store it sealed in plastic.

The colour will settle and shift a little as it ages. That is untreated plant fibre behaving like untreated plant fibre.

Nothing in this guide is a warranty, and none of it is specific to us. It is how dry plant fibre behaves, whoever wove it.

Questions people ask first

  1. Can I clean a woven piece with water?
    A barely damp cloth on a mark, wrung out until it does not drip, then dried straight away with a dry cloth. Not soaking, not a sink, not a steam cleaner. Water is what makes these strips bendable in the first place, so a piece that gets wet again can lose the shape it was dried into, and water left inside a weave is how mould starts.
  2. Is a crack a defect?
    Sometimes it is a drying fault, and sometimes it is a dry room. A crack that appears within weeks in a heated room or above a radiator is nearly always the room: the strips have lost the moisture that keeps them flexible, and they fail at the tightest turn. A crack that is there on arrival is a different matter, and worth raising with whoever sold it to you.
  3. Why did the colour change after a few months?
    Plant fibre responds to light. Direct sun bleaches it, and it rarely bleaches evenly, so a piece with one edge facing a window will drift differently from the rest. A piece kept out of direct sun darkens slightly and settles. Neither is a fault; both are what an untreated natural material does. It is also why two pieces from the same order can be a shade apart before they ever reach a customer.
  4. How should I store stock between seasons?
    Flat where possible, nested with a sheet of acid-free tissue between pieces, inside a breathable carton rather than a sealed plastic bag. Plastic traps whatever moisture the pieces were carrying when you closed it, and a carton lets that moisture leave. Keep it off a concrete floor and away from a radiator, and sell the oldest first.
  5. Can a large wall piece hang on one nail?
    Small ones can, and large ones should not. A woven piece was shaped while damp and holds that shape because it dried, not because it is rigid, so weight hanging from a single point slowly pulls at the weave around it. For anything wide, use two fixings and let the piece sit on both, or rest the lower edge lightly against the wall.
Buying for a shop? Ask us how a piece was dried and what it was packed in. Those two answers decide whether it arrives ready to sell — and they are in the nine questions.
Request a quote

[email protected] — we answer within two working days. Wholesale enquiries worldwide.